• Allen Wrench 1/8”
• Allen Wrench 5/32”
• Allen Wrench 3/16”
• Allen Wrench 7/32
• Rubber Mallet

• Open-ended Wrench 7/16” (11 mm)
• Open-ended Wrench 9/16” (14 mm)
• Open-ended Wrench 3/4” (19 mm)
• Long Screwdriver

IMPORTANT!

Never use any power tools during kit assembly!

Always wear safety glasses

Layout the fastener kit on a bench as shown with the PINK slip on the LEFT. Open the bolt compartments one at a time from LEFT to RIGHT. First, ensure that you identify the bolts for each step before taking them out of the pack

PRO-TIP

Each set of steps requires one compartment from the Fastener kit. Only open one compartment at a time.

Base Parts:

• Uprights (left and right side, these are the same)
• Center Brace (Goes between the two uprights)
• Foot Plate
• Pull down bars (left and right, these are the same)

01.1 - Begin assembling by connecting (insert) the Center Brace into one Upright as pictured. The Center Brace and Uprights are Universal, meaning they can connect anyway, (there is no left or right)

01.2 - Insert the bolt with the washer from the outside, use one washer, and bolt on the cutout. Just hand tight at the point. Repeat the step for the other 3 bolts and nuts. Make sure the uprights can 'wiggle' a bit for now.

01.3 - Close up of the Nut with Washer. Insert the remaining Upright.

01.4 - Make sure it mirrors the first UPRIGHT. Install the two remaining bolts and nuts. Once complete it should look like the picture above (bolts slightly loose still)

02.1 - Insert the assembled Upright into the Footplate slots. The Footplate is Universal, meaning there is no Front, Right, Top or Bottom.

02.2 - Install the Pull Down Bar between the Footplate and the Uprights.

02.3 - Install the bolts into the Footplate. Hand-tight and repeat the steps for the remaining Pull-Down Bar (bolts still slightly loose)

02.4 - Your Base should resemble the last picture above. Now you can fully tighten the bolts that connect the Uprights to the Center Brace. Next, tighten the bolts on the Pull-Down Bars. Set the base assembly aside

03.1 - Start assembling the Motor Plate to the Aluminum Spacers

• Make sure the Aluminum spacer’s round corners are facing toward you
• Layout the parts as pictured

03.2 - Place the Large Motor Plate on top of the Aluminium guides

03.3 - Place the Small Motor Plate on top of the large motor plate and insert the center screw (Don’t use power tools)

03.4 - Align the holes and insert the first bolt, only screw it in halfway. Now screw in the rest of the bolts (only halfway)

03.5 - Once all the bolts are screwed in, you can fully tighten them (don't use power tools).

04.1 - Turn the assembled motor plate over and put the remaining body plate on top, see next picture

04.2 - Now install the six center bolts as pictures.

04.3 - IMPORTANT! don’t use power tools.

04.4 - Tighten all the bolts down

5.1 - Layout the parts as pictured. Note: the washers are on the bolts

5.2 - Only tighten the bolts down about 3/4 of the way, make sure hinges can slide back and forth to adjust for the width of the base. Use a square to see if the hinges are at a 90* angle to the body. If the hinges aren’t 90* you can give it one or two strikes with a rubber mallet until it is at 90*

06.1 - Place the base next to the body so that when you tilt the base towards the body the holes for the hinges would line up, insert the shoulder bolts (see next step).

06-2 - Insert the shoulder bolt into the hinge to connect the body to the base, repeat this for both hinges. In some cases, you might have to use a mallet to get the bolts in if the paint is a little thick.

06.2 - Insert the washer and lock nut

06.3 - Tighten the nut to align the hinges to the upright

06.4 - Tighten the nut so there is no clearance, this is to align the hinge to the base.

06.5 - Next fully tighten the bolts that connect the hinges to the body

07.1 - Turn the Max Grinder right side up as pictured

07.2 - Install the carriage bold into the upright square hole

07.3 - Install the hardened washer from the other side

07.4 - Install the Handle, repeat the steps for the other handle. Once done test the tilting feature to make sure it works well

08.1 - Identify all the parts in Bolt Kit 8

08.2 - Insert the Nylon Washer and Space as pictured

08.3 - The Tension ARM goes in the center between the two spacers

08.4 - Tighten the bolt just enough so there is no movement but not too tight so the Tension Arm can’t move up and down

09.1 - Install the Tension Arm Side Plates

09.2 - The two washers must go on the inside of the two side plates (see next picture)

09.3 - The two larger washers must be mounted on the inside of the side plates, see pic 10.3

09.4 - Once done the grinder should look like the picture above

10.1 - Identify all the parts for the next step. Note the Gas Strut must be mounted upside down

10.2 - Insert the bolt with washer as pictured in the picture above

10.3 - Insert the metal spacer with the two Nylon washers on each side

10.4 - The remaining washer goes on the end

10.5 - Insert the split washer and Nyloc Nut

10.6 - Tighten the nut

10.7 - Tighten the Nut, make sure there is enough clearance for the Gas Strut to move freely

10.8 - Once done the side plates should look as pictured. Make sure the Gas Strut is UPSIDE DOWN

10b.1 - Insert the bolt and washer as pictured

10b.2 - Insert one metal spacer as pictured

10b.3 - Insert the smaller metal spacer and one Nylon washer as pictured

10b.4 - Insert the bottom eyelet over the spacer as pictured

10b.5 - Insert the Nylo spacer as pictured

10b.6 - Insert the metal spacer as pictured

10b.7 - Insert the split washer and Nyloc Nut

10b.8 - Tighten the Nyloc Nut

11.1 - Insert the Bolt and Nut as pictured

11.2 - Insert the remaining nut

11.3 - Insert the Knurled Handle and tighten the Nut on the inside RIGHT

11.4 - Screw in the Handle so it is just flush with the LEFT side plate. Tighten the Nut on the LEFT.

12.1 - Identify the parts

12.2 - Screw the Nyloc nut onto the Screwed Rod, TIP The screwed rod has an Allen Keyhole to hold it in place using an Allen wrench so it doesn’t turn while tightening the Nyloc Nut

12.3 - From the other side add the split washer and regular nut

12.4 - Tighten the two nuts to secure the screwed rod to the Knob.

12.5 - Next add the Washer, Spring, and Spacer as pictured. Set the knob aside for use after the next step.

12.6 - Insert the NUT into the hole as pictured, if the nut is too tight you can use a C-Clamp to press it into place

NOTE: This step might already be completed at the factory

12.7 - Working from the other side insert the NUT.

IMPORTANT! - THIS NUT SHOULD BE BORED OUT SO THE ROD CAN PASS THROUGH THE HOLE

12.8 - Screw the knob assembly into the hole

13.1 - Insert the Allen Bolt with Washer as pictures

13.2 - Slide the tracking block in place

13.3 - Insert the Nyloc Nut and Washer as pictured

13.4 - Tighten the Nut, make sure the block can move freely

14.1 - Identify the parts, Bolt, Nylon Washer, Tracking Wheel, Nylon Washer, Nut

14.2 - Inset a Nylon Washer into the bolt and insert the bolt into the Tracking Wheel as pictured

14.3 - From the other side add another Nylon Washer and Nut

14.4 - Screw the Axle Bolt into the Tracking Block

14.5 - Tighten the NUT.

IMPORTANT! - Make sure that the wheel spins freely, if the wheel is too tight then loosen the NUT and back out the bolt, then re-tighten the nut.

15.1 - Identify the Parts and order of assembly

15.2 - Insert the Spring and Washer

15.3 - Insert the NUT from inside the Tooling Arm receiver

15.4 - Next, screw in the Assembled Handle as pictured

15.5 - Using a long screwdriver, wrap electrical tape, sticky side out around the tip

15.6 - With the sticky tip add the NUT and insert it into the tooling ARM Receiver socket, as illustrated in the next image

15.7 - Insert the NUT using the sticky screwdriver tip

15.8 - Attach the handle to the NUT, the same as before

15.9 - Insert the Tooling Arm with the Threaded Holes as pictured

16.1 - Install the D-Plate as pictures

17.1 - Identify the Parts

17.2 - Install the carriage bolts from the back as pictured

17.3 - Inset the Platen Bracket with Washers and Nuts as pictured

17.4 - Tighten the Top and Bottom Nuts to secure the Platen Bracket.

18.1 - Align the Platen Bracket as Pictures

18.2 NOTE: Make sure the chamfered corners are facing away from the bracket

18.3 - Align the Platen to one side of the bracket. Tighten the top and bottom Alen bolts.

19.1 - Identity the parts for the idler wheel

19.2 - Insert a Nylon washer onto the bolt, insert the bolt with washer into the idler wheel

19.3 - Working from the other side install another Nylon washer and large metal washer as pictured

19.4 - Screw the Idler Wheel Assembly into the D-Plate pre-tapped holes

19.5 - Insert the Lock Nut and tighten using a Wrench, use another wrench to hold the bolt in place so it doesn’t turn. Once done the Wheel should be able to spin freely.

IMPORTANT! - Make sure that the wheel spins freely, if the wheel is too tight then loosen the NUT and back out the bolt, then re-tighten the nut.

TIP!: Rather have the wheel to lose than too tight.

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 1

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

BOX 2

IMPORTANT!

If you are using a larger than 5” tolling arm you need to cut a 45 degree wedge out of the black of the tooling arm or shorten it 1”

IMPORTANT!

Always run the belt with the tension arm fully or almost fully compressed for best results.

Step 1 - Loosen the Tooling Arm locking levers and push it all the way in towards the motor as far as it would go.

Step 2 - Push down on the tension arm with one hand and place the belt over all the wheels as pictured. Notice the slack in the belt hanging loose at the bottom

Step 3 - With the tension arm still compressed, use your other hand to pull the tooling arm out towards you.

Step 4 - With the tension arm still compressed with one hand, tighten the locking lever on the tooling arm to lock it in place and let go of the tension arm.

Warning!

Observe the warning of objects being flung from the machine, most likely when in the horizontal position

Symptom

Possible Solutions

The Tooling Arm is to long

(1) Move the Gas Strut to the TOP position to get a longer travel range.

(2) If you are using a larger than 5``drive wheel then you can shorten the tooling arm by 1” or cut a 45 degree wedge out of the black of the tooling arm.

The belt wobbles across the platen

Belt wobble is very common, it's caused by skew cut belts. You can true up the edge of a belt by running a piece of steel into it until the wobble stops; you can then remove & reinstall that belt & the trued edge will continue to run true.

The belt is not tracking

Make sure there is tension on the belt, see section 4.3

The Motor keeps on tripping the power

(1) Test the circuit using a very inexpensive outlet tester which you can purchase from your local hardware store (see picture below)

(2) Make sure the motor is not connected to a GFCI outlet as they are more sensitive to current limits vs a traditional outlet.

(3) Make sure the motor is not connected to a GfCI circuit breaker (mounted in the breaker or electrical panel) as they are more sensitive to current limits vs a traditional outlet.

The motor does not fit if mounted upside down (with the footplate facing up)

In some cases, the electric motor manufacturer might change the design on the footplate. The fix is to mark and cut the footplate as pictured below.